Malaysian
Journal of Analytical Sciences Vol 19 No 4 (2015): 824 - 830
ASSESSMENT
ON HYROQUINONE IN SELECTED COSMETIC CREAM AND TONER VIA HIGH PERFORMANCE LIQUID
CHROMATOGRAPHY AND ULTRA-VIOLET VISIBLE DETECTOR SPECTROMETRY
(Pengukuran
Kandungan Hydroquinone di dalam Krim Kosmetik dan Penyegar Muka yang Terpilih
Menggunakan Kromatografi Cecair Tekanan Tinggi dan Spektrometri Detektor
Ultra-Violet Sinar Tampak)
Nurul Wihdah Mohd Zukepli1, Wan Siti Atikah Wan Omar2*,
Siti Raihan Zakaria1
1Department of
Chemistry,
2Department of Biology,
Faculty of
Applied Sciences,
Universiti
Teknologi MARA Pahang, 26400 Bandar Tun Razak Jengka, Pahang, Malaysia
*Corresponding author: atikah_bio@pahang.uitm.edu.my
Received:
23 November 2014; Accepted: 27 June 2015
Abstract
Hydroquinone (HQ) is a
whitening component in many cosmetic products, but only allowable at a very low
concentration. The abuse of HQ will damage the skin and the sensitive area on the face. Due to this, many countries
including Malaysia prohibited the use of HQ. However, the increasing number of
whitening products in the market makes HQ suspiciously available. Thus, in this
study, two quantitative methods of determining the HQ concentration were used.
They were namely High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) and Ultra-Violet
Visible Detector Spectrometry (UVDS). In the HPLC analysis, three types of
mobile phase were used to separate three types of whitening products. The best
mobile phase ratio was 20:80 v/v (methanol: water) due to the sharp peak of HQ
and acceptable retention time (5.3 min). From the UVDS analysis, the measured
HQ was found comparable to the HPLC results. Both methods were able to detect
HQ lower than the permissible concentration. The HQ was also found to be stable
for analysis in the same day and different days.
Keywords: cosmetic, HPLC, hydroquinone, UVDS, whitening
Abstrak
Hidrokuinon (HQ) adalah komponen pemutih
di dalam produk kosmetik tetapi hanya dibenarkan pada kepekatan yang sangat
rendah. Penyalahgunaan HQ akan merosakkan kulit dan kawasan sensitif di
bahagian muka. Sehubungan dengan ini, banyak negara termasuk Malaysia telah
mengharamkan penggunaan HQ.
Walaubagaimana pun, peningkatan jumlah produk pemutih di pasaran
membuatkan kecurigaan kandungan HQ. Selaras, di dalam kajian ini, dua kaedah
kuantitatif dalam mengesan kandungan HQ telah digunakan. Kaedah yang
dimaksudkan adalah Kromatografi Cecair Tekanan Tinggi (HPLC) dan Spektrometri
Detektor Ultra-Violet Sinar Tampak (UVDS). Di dalam analisis HPLC, tiga jenis
fasa gerak telah digunakan untuk mengasingkan tiga jenis produk pemutih. Fasa
gerak terbaik adalah 20: 80 v/v (metanol: air) disebabkan oleh puncak HQ yang tajam dan waktu retensi yang boleh
diterima (5.3 min). Daripada analisis UVDS, pengiraan HQ adalah setanding
dengan keputusan HPLC. Kedua-dua kaedah mampu untuk mengesan HQ pada kepekatan
yang dibenarkan. Analisis HQ juga didapati stabil pada hari yang sama dan hari
berbeza.
Kata
kunci: kosmetik,
HPLC, hidrokuinon, UVDS, pemutih
References
1. The National Institute for Occupational Safety
& Health (1978). Criteria for a Recommended Standard: Occupational Exposure
to Hydroquinone. Retrieved from http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/1970/78-155.html.
2. Sigma-Aldrich, (2014). Hydroquinone
ReagentPlus®, ≥99%. Retrieved from http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/ catalog/product/sial/h9003?lang=en®ion=MY
3. Thongchai, W., Liawruangrath, B. &
Liawruangrath. S. (2007). High-performance Liquid Chromatographic Determination
of Arbutin in Skin-whitening Creams and Medicinal Plants Extracts. J. Cosmet. Sci., 58: 35-44.
4. Westerhof, W. and Kooyers, T.J. (2005). Hydroquinone and its Analogues
in Dermatology – A Potential Health Risk. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 4(2): 55–59.
5. Zhao, L., Baoqiang, L., Yuan, H., Zhaou, Z. and
Xiao, D. (2007). A Sensitive Chemiluminescence Method for Determination of
Hydroquinone and Catechol. Sensor
7: 578-588.
6. Desiderio, C., Osscini, L. and Fanali, S. (2000).
Analysis of Hydroquinone and Some of its Ethers by Using Capillary Electro
chromatography. J
Chromatography A, 887: 489-496.
7. Health Ministry
Bands Three Products. (2010). Retrieved from http://www.theborneopost.com/
2010/05/18/health-ministry-bans-three-beauty-products/
8. Garcia, P.L., Santoro, M.I.R.M., Kedor-Hackman,
E.R.M. and Singh, A.K. (2005). Development and Validation of a HPLC and UV
Derivative Spectrophotometric Methods for Determination of Hydroquinone in Gel
and Cream Preparation. Journal
of Pharmaceutical Biomedical Analysis 39: 764-768.
9. Gao, W. and Legido-Quigley, C. (2011). Fast and
Sensitive High Performance Liquid Chromatography Analysis of Cosmetic Creams
for Hydroquinone, Phenol and Six Preservatives. Journal Chromatography A 1218: 4307-4311.
10. Wang, A.C., Cheng, S.H., Sheu, C. & Kwan, C.C.
(2011). Simultaneous Determination of Five Whitening Agents by Ion-Pair
Reversed-Phase High Performance Liquid Chromatography. International Journal
of Applied Science and Engineering 9 (4): 287-299.
11. Odumosu, P.O. and Ekwe, T.O. (2010). Identification
and Spectrophotometric Determination of Hydroquinone levels in Some Cosmetic
Creams. African J Pharmacy
and Pharmacology, 4(5): 231-234.