Sains Malaysiana 39(2)(2010): 233–237
Kegunaan Cetyl CacaoateTM dalam
Pembangunan Gincu: Penilaian Sensori
(Uses
of Cetyl CacaoateTM in Lipstick
Development: Sensory Evaluation)
Samuel Yap Kian Chee* 1, H. Sarini1, A. Aminah2 & S. Sabariah1
1Lembaga Koko Malaysia, Lot 3, Jalan P/9B, Seksyen 13, 43650
Bandar Baru Bangi
Selangor, Malaysia
2Fakulti Sains Dan Teknologi, Universiti
Kebangsaan Malaysia
43600 Bangi, Selangor, Malaysia
Diserahkan: 17 Mac 2009 / Diterima:
27 Julai 2009
ABSTRAK
Kegunaan Cetyl CacaoateTM dalam
pembangunan produk gincu telah dinilai dengan mengubah nisbah campuran lilin carnauba, jojoba ester dan Cetyl CacaoateTM berdasarkan reka bentuk uji kaji Simplex centroid {3,3} melalui
penilaian sensori oleh sembilan orang panel terlatih dengan kaedah analisis
diskriptif kuantitatif. Atribut-atribut yang dipersetujui untuk penilaian
sensori dalam sesi pembangunan bahasa sensori adalah senang disapu, bau tengik,
kekerasan, tektur, kelembapan, kesan sapuan, berkilat, berminyak, keselesaan
selepas guna dan warna kekal. Keputusan menunjukkan bahawa kehadiran Cetyl CacaoateTM dalam
pemformulasian gincu akan meningkatkan skor bagi atribut senang disapu tetapi
akan merendahkan skor bagi atribut kekerasan. Kehadiran Cetyl CacaoateTM memberi
gincu lebih berminyak manakala lilin carnauba mengurangkan kesan berminyak.
Tiada bau tengik yang dikesan dalam semua sampel. Analisis variasi antara panel
menunjukkan terdapat kebezaan pendapat antara panel dalam penilaian
sampel-sampel bagi atribut keselesaan selepas guna dan warna kekal. Nisbah
lilin-lilin kosmetik dalam pemformulasian dasar gincu yang mempunyai skor yang
hampir sama dengan sampel rujukan adalah 1/2 Cetyl
CacaoateTM : 1/2 jojoba ester atau 2/3 Cetyl CacaoateTM : 1/6 jojoba ester : 1/6 lilin carnauba.
Kata kunci:
Analisis diskriptif kuantitatif; atribut sensori; gincu; penilaian sensori
ABSTRACT
The use of Cetyl CacaoateTM in lipstick
formulation was evaluated by varying the porpotion of waxes mixture among
carnauba wax, jojoba ester and Cetyl
CacaoateTM based on Simplex centroid
{3,3} experimental design. Sensory evaluation was carried out by nine trained
panels using quantitative descriptive analysis (QDA) method. The attributes agreed in the sensory languages
development session were easy to apply, off flavor, hardness, texture, moist,
appearance on lip after use, glossy, oily, comfortability after use, and long
lasting. Results showed that Cetyl
CacaoateTM increased the score of easy to
apply but decreased the score for hardness. Cetyl
CacaoateTM in the lipstick formulation
increased the oily feels whereas carnauba wax gave less oily effect. No off
flavor was detected for all the samples. However, the panels had different
perception on comfortability after use, and long lasting. The ratio of cosmetic
waxes in lipstick formulation which gave scores close to reference sample were
1/2 Cetyl CacaoateTM : 1/2 jojoba ester and 2/3 Cetyl
CacaoateTM : 1/6 jojoba ester : 1/6 lilin carnauba.
Keywords:
Lipstick; quantitative descriptive analysis; sensory attribute; sensory
evaluation
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*Pengarang untuk surat-menyurat; email: samuel@koko.gov.my